Thursday, September 28, 2006

survived my first trek

Hey everybody, Nat here... well i'm alive and doing well. I've survived my very first trek... in the Himalayas!! It has been a very exciting past 22 days in India. We left Manali about 3 weeks ago and headed to Leh (capital of Ladakh). It took us four days to cover 475 km. The roads are winding and on the mountain ranges (scary to look down). We had a luxurious ride compared to India standards(hired our own taxi driver and had our own car. We had to pass Rotang pass 4000metres (let's just say altitude sickness hit me, feeling dizzy and as if someone was crushing my brain).
We stayed in Lahaul for two days, with Sarju's friends, beautiful huge house way up in the mountains! We did a aclimatization hike....way up to 35oo metres. Eventhough, you are so tired from hiking, you see the local villagers who are carrying up to 100 pounds of hay for their cows. The rural people work so hard, harvesting for the winter... peas, potatoes, and other crops including grass for the cows to live off of for the winter. They work from sunrise to sunset even into the darkness.
We headed to Leh, where we stayed in a small village (Spituk)in an old traditional Ladakh home. No running water(taking a shower with a bucket of cold water, you learn how to conserve water).
We managed to catch the last day of the Ladakh festival. The costumes are amazing and there was singing and dancing. The Ladakh people are very different culturally and in their looks from other parts of India. They are a mixture of Mongolian, Tibetan and Chinese and their food and way of life is different and they are mostly Buddhist religion. Got to meet a Monk in a monestary in Spituk. This was interesting as I found out the first born male is usually sent to a Monestary at around 9 years old. I even got to witness monks saying their mantras in a temple. Talk about a neat experience, drinking chai (tea) with them.

Then after two days in Leh we headed for Kargil (mostly Islamic community. We had the longest ride of our lifes, the roads are so long and bumpy (max 20 km an hour).
It took us two days (driving 10-12 hours) each day to get to our trekking start Padum.
Unfortunately, many of us suffered from car sickness, and took turns on different days!

As for the trek, well what an experience!! I quickly realized I would not be able to carry my 20 kg bag... myself and Julie (only other female) decided to hire a 'horseman" he took our bags and we were able to buy more food and put them on the horses.
What can I say, it was a definite challenge walking between 8-20km a day at high altitudes on a trail that is 2 feet wide and often on the edge of a cliff.
One thing I learned was not to look up to far, or else you get discouraged. I was definitely the slowest inthe group, but I took my time and enjoyed the scenery. We mostly stayed in villages, very remote communities...completely cut off from the rest of the world. The local food is sampa(grounded up barley), they make flat breads with this, and you mix it with tea to make is type of porridge mix...also tasted butter tea, tea, milk, salt and butter) weird combo, but definitely glad to have it after a long day.
We ended up also camping (surrounded by yaks, very curious about my tent) and finally made it to the Shing-go-la pass (5ooo metres). I sort of cheated and got a ride the last 500 metres with horse man, who I guess felt bad for me (having blisters on both feet and lagging behind the rest of the group).
The Himalayan mountains are amazing, I felt a sense of being so tiny and insignificant... a very humbling experience.... at sometimes I was in awe of the mountains and the people who live there so simply and remotely. The children I met have so very little, mixed matches shoes with holes, dirty hair and faces and no toys..just rocks and dirt. It makes you really appreciate the luxurious that we have back home (hot water- freely running, heat in our houses, grocery stores where you can buy everything and not do any manual labour).

They say you come to India and return a different person. I have seen so much in such few days and am totally greatful for all that I have. Good friends, health, happiness and many luxurious, way more than many of the people I met on my trek!

Take care and I'll keep you posted on my adventures.

4 comments:

Nat's mom, Julie said...

Hi Nathalie!

It was so very good to hear from you! Your account was not only interesting, but truly moving! I had tears in my eyes as I read about your "once in a lifetime" experiences. Yes, we are all so very fortunate in our Canadian lifestyles! --spoiled in fact! However, by the time you reach my age, you come to realize that none of it really matters if you do not have your health and the love and support of family and friends. Different people come to realize this in different ways.

I am so glad that the illnesses in your group were only temporary.

How wise of you and Julie to hire a horseman! I was secretly praying that you would have the opportunity and the wisdom to choose to do so.

I have forwarded your blog to many of my friends who ask about you daily.

My last 2 pieces of advice, my sweet little Nathalie: 1.) that you travel with someone---not alone---as you discover other parts of India.

2.) Please take good care of your feet--making sure not to get an infection.

I'm sending you love across the many miles....and a warm heartfelt thanks to Sarju and the whole group who supported you (especially because you were the slowest) in this amazing adventure. I'm grateful to each and every member of your group.

Take care--all of you!

Julie (Nat's mom) PS. I can hardly wait to see you in Budapest!

riclopes said...

Hi Nathalie, it was a pleasure to read your adventure at the Himalayas. I´m meeting Sarju in a week in Delhi and I just found out that the treking group get shorter...I guess that after a tough physical experience, some meditation and yoga classes will be perfect.
Anyway, thanks for the long and delicious description.
Ricardo

Shelly said...

Hey Nat!

You sound as though you are having a wonderful experience. I wish I was there with you (I would have so gone in on the horseman with you and your friend).It is ok that you were behind the others, it is not a race and you are taking it all in at your own unique pace. Just like the canoe trip, this experience is highly personal and it is for you. Don't feel bad about going at your own pace, it is what is right for you! K, nuff said.

Are you keeping a journal? I loved your comment about not looking too far up (ahead) or you may feel discouraged. Such a metaphor for life. It sounds as though you are really in the moment and taking it all as it presents itself, a lesson for us all in general. I had to laugh about the creatures sniffing around your tent. (they probably are smelling your mid night treats that are tucked away).

I'm really looking forward to hearing all of your amazing stories when you get back. You and your Mom are going to have such a great time when you meet in Hungary.

Thinking of you,
Shelly xoxo

mgoat123 said...

Congratulations...!
Thanks for the beautiful throughts.
It was Notalgic to see your post as I did this trek back in Oct 1983, in my university days on a shoe-string budget in a team of 3. I some time look at some black and white pictures from the time when we did the trek in awe. It was great to see the colour pictures on your blog.

It amazing how these experiences put you in touch with your inner self....

Thanks Again & Best Wishes.